In the bloodsport that is the Paris fashion scene, the failures become almost as compelling as the triumphs. Young or new designers are often brutalized in print before disappearing altogether from the official calendar.
This season, the team at Margièla will be attempting to make up for last October’s show: a tediously cerebral parade of humdrum shirt dresses pinned over sandwich boards for which the label was verbally stoned by the fashion mass.
ANDAM winner Hakaan will also be watching his back: controversy over favouritism during his selection for the prize are rumoured to have contributed to the downfall of Paris Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld, his greatest supporter.
Estrella Archs will also be trying to make a comeback. The Spanish-born designer’s awkward collaboration with Lindsay Lohan for Ungaro—which included sequined pasties under fluo jackets—ended with the actress weeping on the runway, evidently in anticipation of the impending reviews from the bloodthirsty press corps.
On the upside, Rad Hourani beautiful young critical darling who doesn’t follow the traditional fashion calendar—is arousing expectations and is sure to elicit gasps of appreciation from the front row. Yamamoto’s daughter’s line, Limi Feu, has crept painfully along and there’s no word yet on how Yamamoto’s bankruptcy will affect Limi’s sweet, Gothic-Lolita get-ups.
Finally, Belgian couturier Josephus Thimister—who’s lately put out blood spattered couture elaborated around a WWI fantasy—is sure to attract passionately mixed reviews.




